#01 EMBELLISHING
All the backgrounds in this photo series are curtain fabrics from KJELLERUP VÆVERI, which produces upholstery fabrics, curtain fabrics and interior fabrics to order in the town of Kjellerup in central Jutland. Since it was founded in 1950 the weaving mill has been firmly anchored in the Nordic craft and weaving tradition.
KJELLERUP VÆVERI is best-known for its upholstery fabrics, including classic ‘no-name’ collections, collections developed by Hanne Vedel and, most recently, collections by Lykke Kjær. Lykke Kjær has also overseen the updating of the factory’s curtain collection, which consists of simple, monochrome designs, some textured, others smooth, in both very light and thicker qualities.
September 2023
Make-up and hair: Malene Kirkegaard
Model: Tuyana Ililonga/Unique Models
Sara Bruun took over HORNVAREFABRIKKEN (The Hornware Factory) in Bøvlingbjerg in western Jutland together with her husband, Peder Bruun, in i 2008. The factory was originally founded in 1935. Horn as a material has traditionally been used in cottage crafts, and then as now, HORNVAREFABRIKKEN has Denmark’s only professional hornware production. The production is more artisanal than industrial. All the processes are carried out by hand. In addition to HORNVAREFABRIKKEN’s own shops, the products are available in selected design shops in Denmark and abroad.
Before a horn can be used to make spoons, small bowls, hair clips, combs or other functional objects, it is boiled and rinsed in water. A rough outline of the intended product is then drawn directly on the raw horn and cut on a band saw.
The resulting ‘blank’ is then ‘rubbed’, a process where the horn is ground down to a uniform thickness using coarse sandpaper. Some horn products need to be robust, others delicate and thin, almost transparent. Horn can handle both. When the product is the same thickness throughout, it is given its final form. At this stage, the process varies for different types of products.
Next, the item is sanded again, in a process going from very coarse to very fine sandpaper. Polishing is the final step.
Since the take-over, Sara has been pursuing her dream of working with jewellery design, initially on a small scale, as a sideline. In 2020, she realized her dream of launching an actual jewellery collection. She did so in collaboration with the Paris-based Danish designer Jørgen Simonsen, who comes from northern Jutland. Under the brand ‘NORTH SEA’ they have designed and developed a ring and a series of beautiful necklaces.
Uddrag af artikel om smykker i HÅNDVÆRK bookazine no. 5
Du kan købe bookazinet her
På forrige foto ses dels ringe og halssmykke fra Sara Bruun og Jørgen Simonsens samarbejde, dels HORNVAREFABRIKKENs klassiske armringe.
Sara Bruun overtog i 2008 sammen med sin mand Peder Bruun HORNVAREFABRIKKEN i Bøvlingbjerg i Vestjylland, fabrikken er etableret i 1935. Horn som materiale har traditionelt været brugt til husflid, og HORNVAREFABRIKKEN havde dengang som nu Danmarks eneste professionelle hornvareproduktion. Der er tale om kunstindustri mere end om egentlig fabrikation. Alle processer er håndholdte. HORNVAREFABRIKKEN har flere egne butikker og sælger desuden gennem danske og internationale designbutikker.
Inden et horn kan bruges som materiale til skeer, små skåle, hårspænder, kamme eller andre brugsgenstande, skal det udkoges og skylles i vand. Et groft omrids af det produkt, som skal fremstilles, tegnes direkte på råhornet, formen saves ud på båndsav.
Derefter skal det spirende produkt rubbes. Det betyder, at hornet slibes ned til en ensartet tykkelse ved hjælp af groft sandpapir. Nogle hornprodukter skal være robuste, andre helt delikat tynde, næsten transparente. Hornmaterialet kan begge dele. Når produktet har fået en ensartet tykkelse, skal det have sin endelige form. Afhængig af typen af produkt er processen forskellig.
Afslutningsvis slibes det igen, først med meget groft og til sidst med meget fint sandpapir. Fremstillingsprocessen afsluttes med en polering.
Siden overtagelsen har det været en drøm for Sara at arbejde med smykkedesign, det har hun gjort løbende, i det små. I 2020 blev drømmen om en egentlig smykkekollektion en realitet i et samarbejde med den nordjyske, parisbaserede designer Jørgen Simonsen. Under navnet ‘NORTH SEA’ har de sammen designet og udviklet en ring og en serie overdådige halssmykker.
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